IN BRIEF
TOTAL DISTANCE: 397,1 km
Stages: 7 (but plan a total of 9 nights for this trip)
Total elevation gain: 5.704 m.
Total riding time (without stops): 28-30 hours
Below, at the end of the main article, you can see more details about the itinerary, plus tips about where to eat, sleep, shop, monuments to visit, bike rental, best period, clothing, etc.
In the afternoon the sun tinges with gold Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, crouched under a limestone mountain, between which passes a chain of 226 meters with a star in the center: the ex-vote of a knight after the crusades. The argentine rustling of the Rioul stream acts as a soundtrack to the scenography of pastel houses, faïence (ceramics) shops and flowered balconies of this hamlet, declared Un Des Plus Beaux Village de France (one of the most beautiful villages of France). Twenty thousand olive trees have replaced the ancient saffron plantations on the dry terraces of the Claux hill and are used to produce a very spicy extra virgin olive oil and the tapenade (olive cream), the “caviar de Provence” (Provence’s caviar).
Immersed in the Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon (Verdon Regional Natural Park), the tumultuous river with green waters that digs the Gorges du Verdon (the largest canyon in Europe) before flowing into the artificial reservoir of Lac de Sainte Croixe, Moustiers is the jewel of the Department of the Alps-de -Haute-Provence. From here we start for a 7 day-wide-ranging bike tour which, developing towards the west to cross the Plateau de Valensole and then explore the Vaucluse, allows you to savor the most iconic Provençal landscapes at a “slow travel” pace. Pedaling after pedaling, Provence will envelop us in its bucolic enchantment and scenes of daily life will appear to us as vintage frames: friends playing petanque (bowls) under the plane trees of the squares and couples sitting in cafes sipping pastis, the anise liquor with a penetrating aroma and a sweet taste. The cruising speed of the bicycle lets us immerse ourselves with all our senses in the ocean of lavender fields, inhale the perfume released by the waves of the Or Bleue (Blue Gold) to our lungs, listen to the cicadas concert. It also allows us to cross the many historic centers closed to car traffic.
DAY 1: Lac de Sainte Croix Loop Ride
We start from Moustiers-Sainte-Marie taking the descent towards Lac de Sainte Croix. The road opens and passes over the bridge that crosses the point where the Verdon river plunges into the artificial lake, a “turquoise sea” bordered by pebble beaches and dotted with white sails, red canoes and yellow pedal-propelled boats. Further on, after Les Salles sur Verdon, the asphalt ribbon leaves the lakefront to dive inland and then, drawing a “V”, it returns towards the coast, where Bauduen is reflected in the blue. The best place to immortalize this delightful lake village with a large beach is however the belvedere which is located further along the D71, which runs close to the banks and offers magnificent views of bays and cliffs. Craving for a dip in the fresh waters of the lake, we ride on a steep descend to Sainte-Croixe-du-Verdon, which is located on the west bank. We reach the lake and continue on the dirt road that runs pieds dans l’eau (along the waterfront) to the north and gives access to several white pebble beaches, quiet even in high season. We take a spectacular swim th in crystal clear waters like those of the Maldives, before lying down in the warm sun of Provence. From here we have to face the serpentine of the D111A that climbs steeply (up to a 18% gradient at one point) before getting to the Route the Moustiers which will take us, among beautiful lavender fields and lake views, to the village from where we have departed in the morning.
DAY 2: Moustieres, Puimoisson, Valensole (on the D8), St. Michel L’Observatoire
The Plateau de Valensole, mainly cultivated with lavandin (hybrid of the lavandula officinalis), is a pleasure for cyclists: flat roads and purple rows as far as the eye can see. It has as its center the village of Valensole, with the Sainte Trinité Chapel (16th century) and the Gothic church of Saint Blas. In the bars, the elderly drop their basque hat over their white hair and take out belote cards or the newspaper La Provençe, enjoying the sun warmth. A beautiful fountain gives refreshment in the hottest hours. La Fontaine à Vin sells lavender honey and other organic products from the Plateau de Valensole, such as lavender essential oils, almonds, extra virgin olive oil, truffles. In the shop there are also perfumed bags, Aleppo soap and Argan oil, bunches of dried lavender. The Route de Manosque takes us to the Durance River, in a more man-made and less interesting landscape area. We go up northwest to make a short foray into the Pays de Forcalquier and reach the tiny village of Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire, announced by the patchwork of lavender fields alternating with the blond ones of wheat. From July to mid-September the Center Astronomique organizes the Été Astro, with themed events and the observation of the sun during the day and the constellations at night.
DAY 3: Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire, Aurel, Sault
The morning is still sparkling when we take the route to Sault. The road gradually climbs towards Banon, a delightful medieval village in honey-colored stone, and continues to soar until it reaches the Plateau d’Albion, the heart of lavender cultivation in the Vaucluse Department. Arriving in Aurel we take the Chemin d’Aurel for Sault, a beautiful flat road which, on the right, offers a fabulous view over the mosaic of lavender fields. Sault lives out of the Or Bleue: the shops display wooden carts overflowing with soaps, essences, postcards, small bunches of “super-blue” lavender. For purchases, go to the Maison des Producteurs, which sells essential oil, lavender honey, dried bouquets, perfume bags, jams, herbs from Provence. Sault is also a cyclist’s paradise, thanks to the many ring routes that explore the plateau and to “His Majesty”, the Mont Ventoux. The least difficult of the three itineraries to cycle the legendary summit featured so many times in the Tour de France starts from Sault: it is longer (about 25.7 km), but climbs more gradually. The thrill of conquering the 1912 meters of the very windy “Bold Mountain” is priceless and today it is also within everyone’s reach: if you’re not too fit, you can ride it on an e-bike. To experience the Mont Ventoux, it is therefore worth planning an extra day in Sault (for the article about climbing the Mont Ventoux, see here).
DAY 4: From Sault to L’Isle sur la Sorgue via Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt
From Sault we head south along the Chemin de Romanet, always flanked by the lavender sea. The destination is a secluded village, Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, never crowded even in summer, because it is not visited by tourist buses.
Protected by the icy mistral (a North West wind, typical of Provence), this tiny hamlet is perched 350 meters on the southern slope of the Monts de Vaucluse overlooking the northern valley of the Luberon. In Spring time, the delightful village, whose architecture, dominated by the ruins of a castrum (castle) dating from Roman times to the 19th century, is enveloped in the “white cloud” of the cherry blossom. This is also the land of artichokes and wines (AOC Ventoux), almonds and olive trees. From 400 to 1100 meters above sea level, the mountain is covered by a forest of conifers and oaks, garrigue (Mediterranean scrub) and, of course, lavender plantations.
It is very pleasant to ride between monumental sculpted stone portals, wrought iron balconies, trompe-l’œil, fountains and sinks. Rue de la Combe is lined with restaurants and cafés. The right place for a quick snack is Aux 3 Moulins, in Place de la Fraternité, where they prepare tasty sandwiches and smoothies. From here you can continue on Rue Victor Hugo, which wedges towards the Town Hall and church of Saint-Étienne (1860), with the pointed bell tower that pierces the turquoise sky of Provence.
DAY 5: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Fontaine de Vaucluse (via Chemin du Pigeolet),
Gordes, Roussillon
The destination of the day is then L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the “Provençal Venice”, famous for the great antiques fair in August, for many second-hand shops, for the canals that creep between the houses, for the bridges, mill wheels, fishermen. In addition to the Baroque Collégiale Notre Dame des Anges, the Maison René Char is worth visiting: the top floor is dedicated to the poet and in the rest of the museum there are exhibitions of modern and contemporary art.
Riding for a few kilometers along the river, you reach Fontaine de Vaucluse, the place where Petrarch, the renowned Italian medieval poet, was inspired and wrote the famous verses “Clear, fresh, sweet waters”. From here we continue to one of the most beautiful villages in the Luberon, Gordes. The rhythm of the vineyards accompanies us until the Renaissance Château de Gordes appears, perched on a crib of houses distributed amphitheatrically on the white rock of the Plateau de Vaucluse, above the Sorgue and Calavon rivers. In the high season, the bicycle is really blessed, because there is a lot of traffic of cars and tourist buses and finding parking is really impossible. In a nearby basin there is the Cistercian Abbey of Senanque (dated 1148), surrounded by rows of lavender. If you want to visit it, plan an extra hour or two. Less than ten kilometers separate us from Roussillon, yet when we get off the bikes it seems to be on another planet. The ocher village exhibits a thousand shades of burnt earth. Already the Romans, two thousand years ago, used these sands to make pottery. In the chestnut wood, scented with Mediterranean scrub and maritime pines, red, yellow and purple pinnacles rise up and look like flames “frozen” in the rock. These cliffs are what remains of the ocher quarries, used, among other things, to obtain natural dyes. Visit the Sentier des Ocres: dug by the hand of man and modeled by the wind and water, these scenarios have something “extraterrestrial”. Also interesting is the Conservatoire des Ocres et des Couleurs, which celebrates the world of color and offers themed workshops. Then wander through the village, browsing in the ceramic shops, and finally relax while sipping a pastis in the main square.
DAY 6
Roussillon, Rustrel, Gréoux-les-Bains
We leave Roussillon for the longest (and maybe toughest) stage of the tour. But it will be worth it! We ride to Rustrel, a village famous for the Colorado Provençal, so-called because of the otherworldly orange, yellow and red scenery of its amazing ochre cliffs.
Somehow the landscape is reminiscent of Utah with Bryce Canyon or of a little Colorado. To visit the Colorado Provençal, the former ochre mines, you have to lock up the bike somewhere around the car parking and then walk one of the several trails (admission is free). They take from one to three hours to complete. The shorter path will lead you among the most striking rock formations. The second one, the intermediate one, climbs in less than two hours to two unforgettable panoramic points and then joins the first one. The circuits have legendary names: the Fairy Chimneys, the White Desert. We are immersed in a unique nature in Europe: pyramids and columns that will change color depending on the time of day and season, from orange to straw yellow, from bright red to magenta and white.
Once we get back on the saddle and leave Rustrel, a sequence of ups-and-downs leads us to a longer and steadier climb after which we descend towards Manosque. A larger city than the previous villages, Manosque appear to us surrounded by lavender fields. We enter the pear-shaped historic center to wander among picturesque squares and houses, ramparts, the Sauverie gate (14th century), the Soubeyan gate (13th century) and the church of Notre Dame de Romigier. Leving Manosque we head towards the Durance river, we cross it and then the road begins to meander and to climb again in a beautiful green scenery up to Gréoux-les-Bains. This pleasant spa and health resort is situated in the Verdon Regional Natural Park and was described by Provençal writer Jean Giono as “Verdon’s romantic oasis”. Gréoux-les-Bains is famous for its water’s healing properties. The Thermes Troglodytes thermal baths offer medical treatments to cure rheumatism and respiratory diseases, as well as fitness, spa and relaxation programmes: truly an ideal way to recover after long days in the saddle. Perched atop a hill, the village has picturesque alleys and colorful houses creating a cute postcard look. In the old town we find the church of Notre-Dame des Ormeaux, dating from the 11th-12th century, and the he imposing Château des Templars from the 12th century.
DAY 7
Gréoux-les-Bains, Allemagne-en-Provence, Riez, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
The last stage is shorter and much easier. We will head towards Allemagne-en-Provence, a cute village in the middle of the Pays du Verdon. We pedal on a road that progressively gains altitude until we reach this little town where we can visit a former 13th century fort, enlarged and restored during the 16th century into a magnificent Renaissance castle with beautiful gardens. We continue along a pleasant and easy to ride road to Riez, one of the lavender villages on the Plateau de Valensole. Called Riez la Romaine, this town was founded in the first century and is the most ancient site of the Alpes de Haute Provence. There are ruins from Gallo-Roman, medieval and Renaissance periods. The four columns of a first century temple probable dedicated to Apollo are witnesses to this great past. The tiny streets of the town are now lined with boutiques selling lavender products, honey, thyme and truffles. There are also workshops of sculptors, pottery and faience artisans. Keep some energy in your legs to face the last stretch of road that leads to Moustier-Sainte-Marie: it gradually rises up to about 700 meters above sea level, before descending for a few kilometers and then ramping up to get back to the picturesque village of refined faïence and pastel colored houses: our final destination after seven enchanting riding days in the heart of Provence.
PRACTICAL INFO
ABOUT THE TOUR
The itinerary that I have designed is very varied and crosses a territory of hills and plateaus, allowing you to enjoy the best of iconic Provence. There are some challenging parts, but, if tackled with an e-bike, the course is suitable for everyone. The loop route, chosen for its landscape relevance, generally follows secondary roads less traveled by traffic and in some cases overlaps with “thematic” ring routes. In total, you cycle 397,1 km in 7 days.
You will ride across the Plateau de Valensole and the Pays de Sault (with the wonderful lavender plantations), and will get to know the most beautiful charming villages: Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Valensole, Sainte-Michel-l’Observatoire, Sault de Provence, St. Saturnin-Les-Apt, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, Gordes, Roussillon, Rustrel, Manosque, Greoux-les-Bains, Allemagne-en-Provence, Riez.
BIKE TYPE
The itinerary takes place on asphalted roads, so the best options are as follows:
1) If you are trained, since the path has many ups and downs, the ideal is to choose very light carbon racing bikes. In this case, however, you will have to use a luggage transfer service between the various stages.
2) If you want to travel with your personal effects on the bike, the advice is to rent an e-bike, so you can easily ride up the hills and quickly cover the daily distances.
3) For the more trained who choose the self-sufficient mode and a “muscular” bike, the ideal is a hybrid or a touring bike equipped with agile gears and travel bags, to avoid having to ride hours and hours with heavy backpacks. The rule is: “charge the horse, not the rider”.
BEST PERIOD
Scenic wise, I warmly suggest to ride this course during the blooming of lavender, between the end of June and mid-July (on the Plateau de Sault, which is located at a higher altitude, you will find flowers until the third week of July). On a climatic level, the bike tour can be done from April to October (possibly excluding August, when temperatures rise too high).
Good to know: in Provence there is a lot of temperature difference between night and day and the freezing Mistral wind can often blow, so you need to bring a windproof jacket. Do not forget sunglasses, a high protection sunscreen cream, to be applied every two hours, and a product to treat bee or wasp stings.
THE ITINERARY – DETAILS
DAY 1 – Lac de Sainte-Croix Loop (clockwise): Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Bauduen, Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
Distance: 61.2 km
Riding time (excluding stops): 4 hours 30 min/ 5 hours
Altitude gain: 933 m
Altitude loss: 933 m
Difficulty level: medium
GPS file: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/32262667
The tip: Book the first two nights in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, the starting point of this Grand Tour of Provence by bicycle. This way, you can “circumnavigate” the Lac de Sainte Croix first, without having to change hotels. This loop is truly not to be missed out, both for the views (the stretch between Bauduen and Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon is very beautiful), and for the possibility of swimming from one of the many beaches along the way. Then, the following morning, you can go west towards Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire.
DAY 2
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Puimoisson, Valensole (on the D8), Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire
Distance: 65,9 km
Riding time: 4 h 30 min
Altitude gain: 938 m
Altitude loss: 984 m
Difficulty level: medium-easy
GPS file: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/32262880
This day we cross the Plateau de Valensole. Leave early, so that you can roam the lavender fields at will. We travel the D8 between Puimoisson and Valensole (lengthening the journey a little), because it is the road where there is the highest concentration of scenic plantations of Or Bleue (Blue Gold). On the plateau, you almost always ride on flat terrain.
DAY 3
From Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire to Sault (via Banon and Aurel on the D5-D950)
Distance: 49,3 km
Journey time: 3 hours 30 min/4 hours
Altitude gain: 806 m
Altitude loss: 616 m
Difficulty level: medium-easy
GPS file: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/32263018
Climb gradually towards Banon until you reach Plateau d’Albion, where the lavender fields begin and where the road begins to descend slightly (starting from Reverse du Bion) and continues undulating until Aurel. From here the last 5 km towards Sault are flat and very scenic.
If you want to experience the exciting ascent to Mont Ventoux you have to stay one more night in Sault. The route is 25.7 km long to the top (1912 m) with an average gradient of 4.5% and a maximum gradient of 11% (in the last 6km, in fact, the road rears up decidedly and there is always a lot of wind). Elevation gain: 1152 m. The riding time depends on the type of bike and the degree of training. For more on climbing the Mont Ventoux, please see here.
DAY 4
From Sault to L’Isle sur la Sorgue via Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt
Distance: 61.2 km
Journey time: 3 hours 30 min
Altitude gain: 461 m
Altitude loss: 1160 m
Difficulty level: easy
GPS file: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/32263047
The lavender patchwork accompanies us along the first stretch of road on the D943. The road continues to rise gradually for about 10 km and then begins the descent along the wooded ridge to Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt. From the village we start to descend again until we meet the D900 towards the west, almost all on quite flat ground up to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
DAY 5
L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Fontaine de Vaucluse (via Chemin du Pigeolet),
Gordes, Roussillon
Distance: 44.2 km
Riding time: 3 hours and 30 min/4 hours
Altitude gain: 903 m
Altitude loss: 647 m
Difficulty level: medium
GPS file: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/32263089
The route on the D25 to Fontaine is very pleasant and flat. It starts to get very undulating on the D100A and near Lagne and continues to rise when you enter the Luberon on the D15 for Gordes (in the last kilometers the road rears up more decisively). For Roussillon, take the D2 which continues up to the plain flanked by crops and then climbs back up the hill to the city of ocher.
DAY 6
Roussillon, Rustrel, Greoux-les-Bains
Distance: 80,4 km
Riding time: 5 h 30 min/6 hours
Altitude gain: 1.070
Altitude loss: 1.028 m
Difficulty level: Medium
GPS file: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/32263156
From Rousillon we take the D105, then the D104, we turn onto the D22 towards Rustrel. We return along the same road to then deviate on the D231 and face many small ups and downs, then the D 900 begins to rise gradually. After 56.2 km from the start in Roussillon, go down the D907 and begin the descent towards Manosque. After crossing the Durance river, we start climbing again on the D82 towards Gréoux-les-Bains.
DAY 7
Gréoux-les-Bains, Riez, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
Distance: 34,9 km
Riding time: 2 h 45 min
Altitude gain: 593
Altitude loss: 308 m
Difficulty level: easy
GPS file: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/32263180
From Gréoux-les-Bains we take the D952 east towards Saint-Martin-de-Brômes. The road continues to climb incessantly (with very small ups and downs) until beyond Allemagne-en-Provence, reaching its maximum peak of 718 meters when we have cycled for about 29 km. It then goes down to the Saint Jean campsite and then goes up again to the center of Moustiers, our final destination.
TOTAL DISTANCE: 397,1 km
Stages: 7
Total elevation gain: 5.704 m.
Total riding time (without stops): 28-30 hours
Difficulty level: medium/medium-easy
WEB RESOURCES
For the “Verdon à Velo”: veloloisirprovence.com
For the Vaucluse: provence-a-velo.fr
BIKE RENTAL
IN THE VERDON AREA
Eco2 Bikes
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie c / o Les Magnans Shopping Center, Quartier Saint Michel, tel. 0033 06 5040 6374; nordamour.jimdo.com. E-bike 35 € for 1 day, 75 € for 3 days and 150 € for 7 days. Road bike: 25 € / day, 55 € for 3 days and 110 € for 7 days.
IN THE VAUCLUSE
Albion Cycles
Sault, Route de Saint Trinit, Tel. 0033 (0) 4 90 64 09 32 and 0033 (0) 6 68 83 03 88; albioncycles.com.
A large and well-stocked shop of good quality bikes from Giant: they even offer pedal-assisted racing bikes.
Prices: hybrid, MTB and road bikes in aluminum 25 € for 1 day, 152 € for 7 days. E-Trekking Bike, E-MTB and carbon racing bike: 35 € for 1 day, 203 € for 7 days. Superior carbon racing bike, e-racing bike and E-Fitness Bike: 45 € for 1 day, 257 € for 7 days.
TOURIST INFO
IN THE ALPS-DE-HAUTE-PROVENCE DEPARTMENT
Office de Tourisme de Moustiers Sainte-Marie
Tel.: +33 (0) 4 92 74 67 84; moustiers.eu.
Office de Tourisme de Valensole
2 rue du Docteur Chaupin
tel: 04 92 74 90 02; valensole.fr
IN THE VAUCLUSE DEPARTMENT
Office de Tourisme de Sault,
Sault, Avenue de la Promenade tel. 0033 (0) 4 90 64 01 21; ventoux-sud.com.
Office de Tourisme de l’Isle sur la Sorgue
Isle sur la Sorgue, Place de la Liberté, tel. 0033 (0) 4 90 38 04 78; oti-delasorgue.fr
WHERE TO STAY
La Ferme Rose-Hôtel de Charme ***
Moustiers-Sante-Marie, Chemin de Peyrengue, tel. 0033 4 92 75 75 75; lafermerose.com.
In the countryside, one kilometer from the jewel village of Moustiers-Sante-Marie, there is a very romantic pink art deco farmhouse with a collection of 1950s memorabilia (Vallauris lamps, cameras, fans, sheet metal toys, grinders, model trains and trucks) and paintings by Maurice Vagh-Weinmann. Each room is different from the other and in the large garden there is also a beautiful swimming pool with solarium.
Hotel Galilee ***
Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire, Route de l’Observatoire tel. 0033 4 65 10 00 26.
Very bike friendly hotel, it has large rooms with parquet, furnished with minimal style wood, and nice bathrooms. The terraces offer magnificent views of the village or the countryside. They have a garage for bikes and even damage insurance for vehicles left in their custody.
Le Nesk Grand Gîte Hotel ***
Sault de Provence, 3 rue Bellevue, tel. 0033 6 29 94 66 73; lenesk.com.
In an 18th century building overlooking the lavender plateau, it is a structure with contemporary-style rooms, ideal for sports enthusiasts, especially cyclists. It offers massages, whirlpool, steam bath and sauna.
Try the “Healthy breakfast” (vegetable milk, sheep’s milk yogurt, energy seeds, granules, dried and fresh fruit, Ventoux eggs and ham, gluten-free bread and corn cakes) that costs € 6.
Le Clos des Vergers
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, tel. 00 33 6 62 61 13 18; le-clos-des-vergers.fr.
A B&B with swimming pool surrounded by greenery, ideal for relaxing after a day out and about. The three double bedrooms and the studio apartment for four people are decorated in soft colors. Very helpful owners.
Hôtel Domaine de la petite Isle ****
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Route d’Apt 871 tel. 0033 (0) 4 90 38 40 00; domainedelapetiteisle.com.
Very pleasant location, in a wooded park right on the Sorgue river and less than 2 km from the village. Spacious, sober-style rooms with a terrace. Two swimming pools, private parking, abundant breakfast. They have a storage room for bikes.
Le Clos des Cigales
Roussillon, Route de Goult Tel. 0033 (0) 4 90 05 73 72; leclosdescigales.com.
Two kilometers from Roussillon, a beautiful country house with garden, swimming pool and rooms furnished in a “new Provençal style”. Breakfast is served on the patio with fresh croissants, baguettes and homemade cakes.
Résidence Odalys La Licorne de Haute Provence
Gréoux-les-Bains, Chemin Les Riayes, Tel. 00 825 27 32 73; odalys-vacation-rental.com
The apartments (for 2/4/6/8 persons) are modern and colorful and feature a kitchenette with electric hobs, microwave, oven and dishwasher. The ones located on the ground floor include a private garden, while all others have a terrace. The property features 3 pools (2 outdoor and 1 indoor) and a fitness center. After a day in the saddle, you can also relax in the spa with a hot tub, hammam and sauna.
WHERE TO EAT
L’Estellan
Gordes, c / o Mas de la Senacole, Les Imberts, tel. 00 33 4 90 76 76 55; mas-de-la-senancole.com. Excellent Provencal cuisine created with imagination in a rustic-elegant bistro. To try: The marbled foie gras with gingerbread and beetroot caramel; Bresse poultry in the oven, with panisse millefeuille and vegetable ratatouille, grape must vinegar sauce. Average price: Estellan Menu 39 € (for lunch and dinner); three-course lunch formula € 26.
Islo
L’Isle sur la Sorgue, 3 rue Molière, Tel. 00 33 4 90 20 18 21; islo.fr. Near the church of Notre Dame des Anges, it offers authentic cuisine accompanied by the wines of the Vaucluse. Fish or meat recipes reign supreme, including duck foie gras cooked in the Muscat of Beaumes de Venise or low-temperature beef with stringy potatoes and roasted vegetables. Average price: menu € 35.
Le Jardin de Celina
Valensole, Ancien chemin d’Allemagne, tel. 00 33 4 92 74 83 35; lejardindecelina.com. Maison de Provenceimmersed in the green, it has a cellar with three hundred wine labels, sixteen champagne labels, twenty wines by the glass. Among the dishes: aged rum fois gras with fig chutney; prawns, garlic and parsley with red Camargue rice; homemade tarte caramel with pecans and caramel ice cream. Average price: menu découverte € 29.90.
Le Chapeau Rouge
Simiane-La-Rotonde, Lieu-dit Le Chapeau Rouge, Tel. 0033 4 92 74 22 86; restaurantlechapeaurouge04.fr. In a pink house at the foot of the village, it has an outdoor area and offers dishes made with fresh products.
Average price: three course menu € 25.
L’Estrade
Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt, 6 Avenue Victor Hugo, tel. 00 33 4 90 71 15 75.
Nice atmosphere, good service, delicious outdoor area in the center of the village. Generous portions and Provençal dishes with exotic touches, such as tuna pavé with wakame seaweed and basmati rice. Among the latter, lamb chops with gorgonzola are also very popular. Vegetarians can choose from crudités, omelets, cheese and vegetable dishes. Average price: 36 €
Aux 3 Moulins
Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt, 4 Place de la Fraternite, tel. 0033 6 30 90 65 20.
The right place for snacking on a baguette and a fresh smoothie. Average price: 8-10 €.
WHAT TO SEE, BUY, DO
Museé de la Lavande
Route de Gordes, Coustellet, tel. 0033 4 90 76 91 23, www.museedelalavande.com.
Exhibition of stills from the 16th century to the present day, boutiques of lavender-based products (soaps, essential oils, cosmetic creams, perfume-linen bags). Hours: open 7 days per week. February, March, November, December: 10 a.m to 1p.m and from 2p.m to 5:30 p.m. April, May, September, October: 9 a.m to 1p.m and from 2p.m to 6 p.m. June, July, August: from 9 a.m to 7 p.m non-stop. Closed in January and on December 25. Admission: thematic tours start from 8€.
La Fontaine à Vin
Lavender products (essential oils, soaps, bouquets, honey). Valensole, 4 Place Héros de la Résistance tel. 0033 4 92 74 96 50; saveurs-provence-valensole.com.
La Maison des Producteurs
Lavender products (essential oils, soaps, bouquets, honey). Sault de Vaucluse, Rue de la République tel. 0033 4 90640898; maisondesproducteurs-sault.com
Fromagerie de Banon
Banon, Route de Carniol, tel. 0030 4 92 73 25 03. The famous Banon AOC goat cheese has a cream or bronze color and offers a soft paste, flavored with the scents of the undergrowth of Haute Provence. It is a mixture of sweet and strong flavors and is produced only with whole and unpasteurized goat milk. It is matured in brown chestnut leaves and then tied with a natural raffia thread.
Center d’Astronomie de Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire
Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire, Plateau du Moulin à Vent, Tel. 0033 04-92-76-69-69; centre-astro.com.
Hours: there are no fixed opening hours, because they depend on events. Consult the calendar of events on the website.
Collégiale Notre Dame des Anges
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 2 Place de la Liberté tel. 00 33 6 85 52 70 69. Free admission.
Art Center Hotel Donadeï Campredon
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 20 rue du Docteur Tallet, tel. 0033 4 90 38 17 41; campredoncentredart.com.
Hours: Tue-Sun 10-12.30 and 14-17.30. Admission: € 6.
Abbaye de Senanque
Gordes, Tel. 00 33 4 90 72 05 86; senanque.fr. For opening times (which undergo infinite variations during the year) consult the website. Admission: € 7.50.
Musée de la Faïence
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Rue Seigneur de la Clue; tel. 0033 4 92 74 61 64; moustiers.fr. Hours: 10-12.30 July and August, until 18 the rest of the year. Admission: € 3.
Sentiers des Ocres
Roussillon, tel. 00 33 4 90 05 60 25; roussillon-en-provence.fr/ocres.html. Hours: The hours vary very much during the year, therefore we suggest to check the website for updates. Admission: € 3
